PAINT JOB

Here's a new project I just started a few days ago.  It's an old Azuki frame that I've had laying around for a couple of months now.  I have experimented with several painting methods on my past few builds, and I think I've finally got it figured out.  This frame, though not yet clear coated thanks to some long overdue rain, is coming out pretty nice.  

Of course the best way to get the paint job you want is to get have the frame powder coated, but that can cost $100 or more.  So here's what I do, step by step:

1) First, I strip the frame of any components, including the bottom bracket, and thoroughly clean off any dirt and grease with a clean rag soaked in Rubbing Alcohol. 

2) Sand the frame with 180 or higher grit sandpaper (wear a dust mask since some old paint dust contains lead)  Sand enough to smooth out any dings and/or rusted spots.  Use GooGone to remove sticky residue from stickers or decals. Finish this step by cleaning dust and any remaining grime off the frame with Rubbing Alcohol. Remember: nothing ruins a new paint job faster than leaving grease on the frame.

3) Use painter's tape to mask off the headbadge. A good way to do this is to over-tape and then use a razor blade to trim the edges of the tape to conform to exact shape of the headbadge.

4) Find a well ventilated spot to paint in. Preferably this will be somewhere that you can hang the frame by the head tube or dropouts at a hight that makes it easy to spray all parts without having to re-position it.  I hang my frames from a bungee cord suspended between two nails about 6 1/2' high on either side of a wide door frame.

5) Start with a Primer coat.  I use Rustoleum Automobile Grade Primer.  Shoot a couple thin coats to start out with, about 3 minutes apart.  Don't lay it on thick... just get even coverage, making sure that you hit all parts of the frame.  Let the primer dry for around 24 hours.

6) Lightly sand your primer coat with 280 or higher grit sandpaper.  Clean the frame with Rubbing Alcohol and apply another coat of primer.  Let it dry for 24 hours.

7) Lightly sand with 280 grit sandpaper, clean, and apply your first color coat.  I use Rustoleum Enamel.  Enamel is dries harder and glossier than Acrylic spray paint, and is easier to apply. Start with a couple of thin coats, 3 or 4 minutes apart.  Recoat either within 1 hour or after 48 hours.  Remember, shoot your final coat top to bottom so that you avoid over-spraying onto areas of fresh paint (this causes 'orange peel' or dullness of color in affected areas.) 

8) Once your frame has a few good coats of color on it, give it a couple of light coats of Rustoleum Clear Coat Enamel to protect your color coat and to really gloss it out.  Let the clear coat dry for 24 hours before putting any components back on the frame.  This method won't stand up to a crash or systematic abuse, but if you're careful and protective of your bike (like you should be anyway) it will provide adequate rust protection, resist chipping and look bitchin' for quite a while.